Product testing – Dermalogica Active Moist

As I work at a pharmacy, I get to test a lot of products over time; both new and well-established products. A fairly new but quite popular brand here in Norway is Dermalogica, which is a brand developed by American beauticians.

 

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For approximately 4 months, I’ve tried the moisturizing cream Active Moist. Overall, I think it’s a good cream, very light though so it’s probably not the best fit if you have a normal to dry skin. The consistency is very light and easy to apply, but the smell is too “botanical” for my taste. It’s water-based, which fits oily skin well. I used this cream during the summer, but it will be exchanged by a richer cream soon now that the cold weather is arriving. (A general tip here if you live in a place with cold winters – use two different moisturizers through the year, one for the winter-season and one for the summer).

The brand itself is quite expensive, but as a local beautician told me, the 100 ml tube will last just over 6 months.

 

If I had to rate it at a scale from 1 – 10, I would give it an 8.

Hyaluronic acid – is it really that miraculous?

Constantly we are reminded in different advertisements of hyaluronic acid and how great and skin improving it is. This compound is said to penetrate the skin deeply, keeping the natural moist in the skin at place while refining the skin and remove wrinkles. Anyway, is all of it true?

 

If you look at hyaluronic acid’s structural chemistry in the picture below, you will observe that it’s a highly polar molecule, with a lot of OH-groups and acid-groups, that can deprotonate in water. Therefore, you have an extremely water-soluble substance. The skin, on the other hand, is mostly hydrophobic (water-insoluble).

 

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Regarding the above information, hyaluronic acid will not pass through the lipid layers in the skin. On the other hand, it will remain on the surface of the skin, not being able to penetrate the skin layers below.

In conclusion, I think that hyaluronic acid is very overrated. We need something better and more efficient. Isn’t that right?